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Today, we’re diving into a fun and straightforward modification to spice up your Fairy Tale Dress pattern. Meredith is here to guide us through adding a pleated section to the bodice. If you’ve followed her before, you know she’s no stranger to sharing awesome tips—she previously joined us to showcase her favorite pattern and was even part of the Swingset Skirt panel discussion. Thanks for dropping by with this fantastic tutorial, Meredith!
The Fairytale Dress is one of my absolute favorites from the Oliver + S collection, and I’m super excited to share this bodice tweak with you. Trust me, it’s easier than it sounds, but the end result is absolutely stunning.
To start, trace out the bodice pieces in the size you need. I’m working with a size 5 today. First things first, we’ll reduce the neckline by 1.5 inches since we won’t be using the collar. Simply mark 1.5 inches inward along the curve of the neckline with small dots and connect them. Do this for both the front and back pieces, and then cut along those lines. Your back piece is now ready to go.
Moving on to the front, we’ll need to split it into two separate pieces to accommodate the contrasting center section. Remember, I’m using a size 5, so if you’re working with a smaller or larger size, you might need to adjust your measurements slightly. On the bottom front bodice, make a mark 3/4 inch from the center. Then, go all the way up to the shoulder corner and make another mark. Draw a diagonal line connecting those two marks. Before cutting, double-check that your line avoids the dart entirely—it should stay on one side of it. Once you’ve confirmed, carefully cut along the diagonal line. Don’t forget to label your new pattern pieces with an additional 1/2 inch along the diagonal to account for seam allowances, or you can tape an extra 1/2 inch onto your pieces.
Now, for the pleated section, we’re going to take a shortcut. This method is fast, easy, and doesn’t require creating a complicated pattern piece. Cut four strips measuring 2.5 inches wide by the width of your fabric from your contrasting material. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, press it flat, and finish the raw edges to stop any fraying.
Starting at the bottom of your contrast bodice piece, draw a horizontal line 2 inches from the bottom edge. From there, mark every 1/2 inch all the way up to the shoulders. These marks will eventually be hidden, so feel free to use a pencil. At the bottom, place one of your strips along the 2-inch mark, ensuring the finished edge aligns perfectly with the line. Sew along the finished edge with a 1/4-inch seam. Layer another strip on top, sewing it down on the 1/2-inch mark just above the first strip. Continue this process until your contrast bodice piece is fully covered.
Flip the bodice over and trim the excess edges of the faux pleats so they match the size of the center bodice piece.
Next, sew all the darts on the front, back, and lining pieces. Join the center and side bodice pieces together with a 1/2-inch seam, pressing the seams toward the sides. Add some topstitching to the sides, and then put your Fairytale Dress together as usual, skipping the collar and sleeves if you prefer.
This technique is such a simple yet effective way to add flair to a bodice—or even a skirt or other garment! It’s quick and effortless, but it looks like you’ve spent hours perfecting it. No one will ever guess the truth.
And there you have it—a beautiful, pleated bodice that takes your Fairytale Dress to the next level. Happy sewing!
[Image of the completed dress with the pleated bodice]
If you enjoyed this tutorial, feel free to share your creations in the comments below. Let’s keep the crafting community inspired!